Saratoga Springs

A slice of American Pie

By Paola Cape-Garcia

The sun was out, and so were cafe tables and pale, bare legs. Locals walked around with dogs in tow, browsing the street-front stores and saying "hi" to anyone in sight. Tall iron posts and American flags waved in the wind and cast shadows upon the colonial brick buildings. If this sounds like the most American locale ever, it's because it probably is.

Head east on Interstate 90, then hop onto New York State Route 30 for 30 miles (it eventually turns into NY-29) until Saratoga Springs, N.Y., an actually pleasant Pleasantville. The city harvests an old American feel with a young, modern twist, partly due to the student crowd from Skidmore College. Skidmore is located just 10 minutes away from Broadway Street, the main retail strip in Saratoga.

Broadway Street boasts a mix of chain and local shops like Last Vestige, Saratoga's own version of SoundGarden. This small music store sells dollar records and every vinyl imaginable--from Iggy Pop to Radiohead to Charles Mingus. Even if you're not into vinyl, wander in to check out the decor, complete with transgendered mannequins.

For your fashion fix, try Aggie's on Broadway, which sells high-end labels like Diane Von Furstenberg and T-Bags. If you're partial to clothes that smell like moths and cheap junk, go to one of the many vintage shops in the area, like Reruns on Phila Street.

Right next to Reruns is Lyrical Ballad Bookstore, the most dizzying bookstore ever built. Both a physical and literary maze, it takes you from tiny room to even tinier room--I lost count after seven--with books organized manically. Think Dostoyevsky next to Barefoot Contessa cookbooks.

But the heart of Saratoga lies in its food. Circus Cafe on Broadway boasts great burgers and sandwiches, and a cool interior to boot. Splashes of blues and reds, velvet curtains, and Toulouse-like art nouveau murals line the walls. If you're lucky, you'll charm the waitress into giving you a mountain of free, pink cotton candy. (My teeth still hurt.)

If your sugar high wears off, stop in at Mrs. London's, an internationally recognized bakery on Broadway. Rachael Ray, Bobby Flay, and Andy Rooney have all sung its praises. For dinner, hop over to Hattie's, a Southern-style bar and restaurant that's been around for more than 70 years.

For some nightly music history, head next door to Caffe Lena, a famous folk venue where the likes of Bob Dylan, Arlo Guthrie, and Ani DiFranco have graced the small stage. Try their signature chocolate chip cookies if you're not too strung out on sweets.

After some live entertainment, hit Caroline Street, where all the drunkards reside. Tin & Lint is a real bar, complete with blues, beers, and busty blond bartenders. It's also where Don McLean penned "American Pie." It doesn't get more authentic than that.

So next time, don't bypass Saratoga on the highway. You'd be missing out. It's that city that feels like a town. It's that art scene without the pretensions. And it's that food haven that will make you rush to the gym upon returning to SU